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April 2024
Puerto Rico's Wild Side
With a population of more than 3 million Puerto Rico is not a sparsely populated island. Traffic can be horrific and getting to locations can take much longer than expected. In the mountains of the island's back country single-lane, very steep, winding, and potholed roads take another toll on travel time. On a positive note, traffic isn't a concern here!
During our trip to Puerto Rico we explored the better part of the island. Once you leave the busy coastal urban areas and head into the mountain region things start to relax. No rush, no traffic, very few tourists and no English. On most hikes we were alone or met only a very few other fellows. More often than not they were locals and not tourists. If you are willing to take a hike you can find secluded beaches and cliffs at the coasts as well. In the evenings when we were back in Old Town Ponce and later in Rincón we couldn't believe Puerto Rico's Wild Side actually exists, until we were back there the next morning. It does exist and definitively is worth exploring!
JMZ
For best viewing click on picture to enlarge
Juan Diego Falls
This small but very scenic waterfall is located in the Juan Creek in El Yunque National Forest. This is a lush and dense rainforest, which is quite close to San Juan and probably the number one tourist attraction on the island. Early arrival is a must, once the park reaches capacity the gate closes. When we arrived at the falls quite a number of other tourists were there as well. It was a sunny day with some clouds and folks went into the pool to refresh. While I put up my tripod I thought this is going to be a nightmare. However, the stars aligned and for maybe 15 minutes folks left, the sun was covered by clouds and I got my shot. A beautiful place but way to busy for our taste. Check!
La Canoa Falls
These falls are off the beaten path. Located in the southeastern part of the island and south of El Yunque the falls are accessible via narrow back roads. Parking is only possible in the front yard of one of the locals. Five bucks parking fee! At least it keeps the number of potential visitors at bay.
Charco Los Morones
This very scenic area is about an hour car drive north of Ponce. The first time we got there it was still early morning but the had sun started to shine into the valley. I was lucky enough to be at the right spot at the right time to catch the spot light on the upper falls before the light got too bright. Clearly the location had potential and we decided to return next day early enough to have the falls still in the shade.
In Puerto Rico common sense seems to be the guidance. No guardrails, restrictions or other regulations did exist. An installed iron ladder helps you to lower to the first plateau. From there you are on your own. The name "Los Morones" indicates you shouldn't do stupids things. Yes you can climb on the rocks but falling into the canyon would definitively ruin the vacation trip.
Cascada Chorro de Doña Juana
We were on our way back to Ponce when we came by these falls. They are right next to the road and obviously a popular spot for locals to hang out. I tried different compositions of the falls but wasn't happy with the results. The decisive moment happened when one of the locals went into the water and swam under the falls taking a shower.
Rocks in the Surf
About an hour car drive west of Ponce on the south coast of Puerto Rico you find secluded beaches and cliffs. The climate here is quite different. The area is home to one of the most extensive tropical dry coastal forests in the world. We hiked along the coastline starting at a sandy beach and then following a trail up to the cliffs. I took this photo in bright sunshine. To blur the movement of the waves I used a 10x neutral density filter to increase the exposure time to 30 seconds.
Cañón Blanco
Tucked away in the central mountains of the island you find Cañón Blanco. To get there you will drive very narrow, steep and winding mountain roads. On the way back there was one stretch where we had to manage an extremely narrow almost 360 deg curve uphill. The incline was close to 30 degrees. Without the ability to gain momentum we made it at the second attempt with spinning wheels and a smell of rubber. I guess this was where the rubber hit the road, literally!
The canyon is a beautiful sight with interesting rock formations, a river flowing through, and again a practice-common-sense area.
Cascada Las Delicias
Hidden in the mountains of central Puerto Rico this small waterfall is a real jewel. There are no signs, just a small roadside parking area and a narrow trail leading uphill through a hibiscus forest. First you will reach a smaller cascade which you can climb up to the actual waterfall. It is a beautiful but also a mystic place.
Table Rock Beach Dawn
Table Rock Beach is located at the northwest tip of the island. Coming from Rincón we had explored the area the day before. A trail starts at Surfer's Beach, connects to Table Rock Beach and eventually leads to Survival Beach. This coastal forest trail is steep, rocky with endless fallen trees and exposed roots. The rock consists of petrified coral reefs which are pretty rough with sharp edges. It was a mid morning with less than optimal light and therefore we opted to return next morning before sunrise. Equipped with headlights we got an early start and arrived at Table Rock Beach long before sunrise. The light and atmosphere was well worth the early wake-up call and when back in the hotel breakfast tasted even better. Exposure time was 30 seconds which lead to the smooth appearance of the moving water.
Table Rock Surf
This frame I took at the same morning when the rising sun started to spot illuminate one of the table rocks. The surf in the area around Rincón is famous, in 1968 the World Surfing Championship took place there.
The day before when we scouted the location I learned the hard way that the surf shouldn't be underestimated. It happened at Survival Beach (!), I tried various compositions of an interesting rock formation. At some point I was inside of a small alcove when I realized that the ocean swell increased. Getting out was not possible at that point and when I saw that huge white wall coming into my direction I instantly knew this is going to be extremely wet. The wave was about 10 feet high when it crested right above me. At least I had a good justification why I invested in high-end camera equipment, which was able to tolerate this salt water shower. I only hope they will not rename the beach to "Playa Los Morones"
Middle-earth, Cabo Rojo
The cliffs of Cabo Rojo are located at the southwest tip of Puerto Rico. It is a very interesting geology. The bedrock consists of serpentinite with a thick layer of limestone on top of it. Serpentinite is about 4 billion years old and significantly harder than limestone, which therefore erodes much faster. Over time wind and water have formed this landscape which could be a location in Tolkien's fantasy "Lord of the Rings". I attached a 10x neutral density filter to my lens to extend the exposure time in order to produce this dreamy look of the cliffs.
Cascada Gozalandia
This is probably the most distinct waterfall in Puerto Rico. Very picturesque falls running over uniquely shaped rocks in a tropical forest setting. The landscape photographer's obstacles are:
A) it is very popular amongst organized tourist tours and locals.
B) the pool in front of the falls is an inviting swimming pool.
C) the sun rises behind the falls allowing only very early morning shots.
D) the falls are on private land and only open at 9:00am.
It was a few minutes before 9am when we zipped through the open gate, the guy collecting the parking fee following us. Whatsoever, we were first and alone. We rushed down the short trail to the falls and I got started right away. It didn't take 15 minutes until other tourists arrived. Luckily they decided to have breakfast before they would go into the water. This gave me about another 15 minutes. At that point the sun rose above the edge of the falls and flocks of visitors started to arrive turning the tranquility into a swimming pool atmosphere. Time to leave and have breakfast too. Nevertheless, an amazing sight and experience, if you arrive early!
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